Hanoi, Fashion Capital

May Cortazzi and Ha Thi Hang right at Hanoi's London College for Fashion Studies

Vietnam is certainly a land of paradox. Just a few years ago no one would have linked the fashion capitals of the world with Hanoi. A tipoff to the changing times is the “Fashion Channel TV” that operates here 24/7. I must confess that during some of my sleep disturbed nights, I often watch anorexic looking models strut their stuff on catwalks in Paris, New York, Moscow, Milan, London, and even in India. I hate to admit it, but it can be somewhat addicting.

The days of the recent past when one could easily purchase cheap Chinese knock-offs have almost disappeared; not only because of active law enforcement to protect copyrights, but because the Vietnamese have begun the process of establishing their own identity within the fashion world. In 2004, the yet to be formulated Vietnamese brand in fashion received a huge boost from Dr. Martin Shoben, world-renowned designer, author, teacher, lecturer. Shoben foresaw the huge potential within the Asia-Pacific market and founded a nonprofit organization to establish fashion development centers within this region. By 2005, the London College for Fashion Studies became a reality in Hanoi. The elegant five-story school is managed by Ha Thi Hang and is part of Northumbria University in Newcastle, England.

Nguyen Bao Kim Cuc

The School of Design at Northumbria has about 1300 students and is the fifth largest educational institution in the United Kingdom. The college actually began in 1880 and has changed and adapted with the times. The School of Design attempts to attract national and international companies to hire their graduates because “…we are not here to mass produce design clones. We don’t do predictable. We strive to shape designers who are innovative and work with initiative and integrity…”

Ha Thi Hang is proud of her role in shaping the destiny of fashion in Vietnam and boasts that student enrollment, in the past, has included not only Vietnamese but students from Japan, China, Spain, and Singapore. Senior Lecturer May Cortazzi, who has experience in India and Indonesia, was recruited by Dr. Shoben in London and joined Ha’s staff earlier this year. “The work of Vietnamese students,” May told me, ” is more pure and creative without many of the (negative) influences Western students are often subjected.”

Okay now I was hooked. I had to see some of these designs and give my unbiased -and somewhat uneducated- apprasial!

Nguyen Minh Anh

Nguyen Thi Phuong Anh’s “Rock Chic” collection was designed for “the young, dynamic, modern woman who is equally feminine…easy to wear, simple, creative…rock metal, leather, combined with soft fabrics…” Anh’s line looks very stylish, modern, and ‘now’. I feel this line would grace any woman’s body and make her feel good and look attractive.

Nguyen Bao Kim Cuc’s “Mongolian Steppe” collection was “from the wilderness and remarkable eyesight of a Golden Eagle, to the power of its hunter…a new look for a carefree and sexy woman living the Bohemian lifestyle…” As far out as this sounds, this collection, I felt, was realistic, fashionable, and could actually be worn by a large segment of women. My only dislike was the politically incorrect use of real fur; other than that, one could easily note the creative genius of Cuc’s work.

Nguyen Bao Kim Cuc

Nguyen Phuong Thu Ngan’s “Maid of Orleans” collection was composed of “soft fabrics consisting of silver linens, pink silk, flesh toned chiffon, and soft cotton.” This was a practical, stylish effort that any woman could wear. The designs radiated affordable elegance acceptable in any social circle.

Nguyen Minh Anh’s “Desert Wind” collection “contrasts between the soft and strong by the creative use of fabric, shape, pattern, and color;” which is exactly what this designer did in a very appealing manner. Again something every woman could proudly wear.

Bui Thi Minh Phuong’s “jellyfish” inspired collection of “fall-winter black, burgundy, and red velvet, silk, and wool concentrates on detail and subtle color changes.” A very practical and stylish collection that is most pleasing to the eye.

Nguyen Phuong Linh’s “mysterious black rose” collection “inspired by white flowers blooming into the night” is rather avant-garde, my opinion, and something I think most would expect on a run-way targeting young, hip, modern women.

As I departed the London College for Fashion Studies, I was impressed with the foresight Dr. Shoben had when he opened the school here in Hanoi. After seeing the designs produced by the students, one could actually feel the creative genius that will certainly make Hanoi a fashion and design destination in the not too distant future and a worthy rival to the older, established fashion centers.

The times, they are a changin’.

James Rhodes